For bow geeks, setting up and tuning a compound hunting bow is practically as much enjoyable as shooting it. Every bow is various, of course, and might need a specialized tune, however this rough guide will get you begun in the ideal instructions.
We're an affiliate
We hope you love the products we recommend! Just so you know, we may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page. Thank you if you use our links, we really appreciate it!
1. Check Your Draw Length
Whether you’re beginning with a brand-new bow, or you simply put fresh strings and cables on an old shooter, it’s finest to check the specifications – yours and the bow’s. Discover or verify your draw length with this easy computation.
2. Check the Bow Specs
Make sure the bow is at the factory-specified measurements by tightening up draw weight to the max poundage. The majority of brand-new bows will be bang-on, however if your rig is off, get a press, or to a bow store, and twist or untwist the cables till it’s best. Check the brace height by determining from the deepest part of the bow’s grip to the string.
3. Check the Cam Timing
Many bows have marks on the cam( s) to make sure the timing is appropriate. Verify this on a draw board or by inspecting the timing marks while a good friend draws the bow. If your bow does have a timing concern, take it back to the location of purchase and have them repair it.
4. Centershot the Rest
Bolt the rest to the bow, nock an arrow, level it, and eyeball the entire thing so the arrow is running directly parallel to the flat side of the riser. Centershot is somewhat various for each bow design however 13/16- or 7/8-inch from the riser is an excellent location to begin. Paper tuning will guarantee its bang-on.
5. Time the Rest
If you’re shooting a drop away, you’ll likely need to connect, secure the rest or serve cable to the down buss cable. The secret is to make sure it enters into complete capture position within the last couple inches of the draw cycle.
6. Discover the Nocking Point and Tie a D-Loop
Make sure the bow is leveled in a nock, arrow and vise , and make sure the arrow and string are level, too. Some bows like an almost level knocking point. Research study your bow’s make and design online for the finest location to begin.
7. Connect and Level the Sight
Start by bolting the sight to the riser, then protect your bow in a vise or to a workbench with clamps.
If the bow sight bubble is now level, then your 2nd axis on the sight is great. If not, check the handbook that came with your sight. The 2nd axis is the left/right tilt as suggested by the bubble on the sight.
8. Connect the Peep
The fastest method to discover the right height is to draw the bow with your eyes closed, discover your anchor point, then open your eyes. Shoot the bow for a bit and change it up and down till it feels.
9. Construct Arrows
Slower bows impart less flex on an arrow, so they require less rigidness, or spinal column, to fly real. Faster bows require a stiffer spinal column. Factory-fletched arrows work well in the majority of hunting scenarios, however there’s a satisfaction in developing your own arrows, for sure.
10. Paper Tune
You bow and arrows are constructed. The most essential thing is to get a constant release with each test arrow.
11. Sight in the Bow
Change the sight so it’s dead nuts left to right, however a little high. He likewise just sights in one variety per shooting session, to even more cut back on tiredness. That’s darn great suggestions, however if you’re shooting a single pin slider, check out your sight handbook as you’ll most likely avoid the middle ranges and shoot at 20 and 60 yards to choose a sight tape.
12. Walk-Back Tune
I typically do this after a couple of weeks of shooting the brand-new rig, so I have time to get comfy with it. Walk-back tuning will assist micro-adjust your rest and sight to broadhead flight.
Ready and dialed-in to hunt, now is the time to practice. All the tuning on the planet will not offset bad shooting form, so go out there and punch some targets.